Wood Heating FAQ
What is the best type of wood to burn?
Hardwoods, such as oak and maple are better to use for cold weather heating, as they produce long, hot fires. Softwoods, such as spruce and pine works better in milder weather. The soft woods light and burn more quickly, and do not leave a long-lasting charcoal bed.
How can you tell if your firewood is dry enough?
The appearance of the wood will give you some indication as to how dry it is. On the ends of the pieces, grain should appear grey and checked. When hit together, the pieces should make a dull, hollow sound. Using a moisture meter is another way to determine if the wood has achieved a moisture content under 20%.
Where do I get good, dry, seasoned firewood?
Ensuring a regular supply of good firewood can be a daunting process, which may involve shopping around. Once you have found a reliable supplier, you should book your order ahead to ensure they will have cut and seasoned enough. Before you accept delivery of a load of firewood, check it over. Use a moisture meter, if you want an accurate reading of the moisture content. If the wood is still a little too green, you could plan to let the wood continue seasoning throughout the summer, for use in the fall.
What is the best way to start a fire?
By stacking some small, dry pieces of kindling on top of a generous pile of crumpled paper and lighting it, you will create a quick, hot fire. This also creates a good draft in the chimney. Once the kindling has ignited, larger pieces of dry firewood can be set on top of it. These pieces should burn starting at the edges, so try to avoid using rounded logs at this stage. Your kindling bed will have collapsed into a kind of grate, which will help the combustion air flow underneath the burgeoning fire. Keep the primary air damper fully open until you have built up the fire with large pieces and they become charred all over. The air flow can then be reduced to the point where secondary combustion can be maintained, while working with reduced primary combustion air.
What makes a “high-efficiency” wood stove better than an ordinary one?
A quality, high efficiency wood stove will feature “secondary combustion technology”, by way of a specially engineered baffle system, located at the top of the firebox. The air holes in the baffle are designed to allow combustion air flow into the air-tight chamber from the top down. This process holds the smoke in the firebox long enough for the extremely hot smoke to re-burn, thereby releasing more heat and reducing the amount of smoke going up the chimney. The hotter the stoves burns, the better the secondary combustion process works. More of the fuel is burned, leaving behind a finer type of ash and less of it.
Here is a great video, that explains how a non-catalytic wood stove functions. It features our Enerzone Wood Burning Stove:
What is “catalytic” technology?
A stove or fireplace which utilizes a “catalytic combustor” for burning efficiency is a different technology than the “secondary combustion” one. A catalytic combustor is a small box located at the top of the firebox, which has a series of channels inside. These channels are coated with a chemical which, in reaction with smoke, will lower the burn temperature of the smoke, causing more of the smoke to burn. This chemical reaction happens only when the combustion reaches a certain temperature. A by-pass damper is required to route the smoke through the catalyst when at the correct temperature, so the stove will need to be monitored. Catalytic combustors often need to be replaced due improper burning of certain materials, such as painted wood or glossy paper. The chemicals on these items can re-coat the catalyst, rendering it ineffective. Sometimes, they break or warp, just due to regular usage. Replacements can cost upwards of a few hundred dollars.
What are the differences between steel, cast-iron and soapstone stoves?
Stove type is a key consideration when buying the right woodstove. “Steel stoves” are made with a welded sheet steel construction, usually including an outer steel panel, which form the “heat shields”. A steel unit will heat up much faster than the other types, but cools down faster. The heat shields convect cooler air through the channel created at the sides and the back, to further heat circulation.
Cast iron stoves usually have the aesthetic properties many people love. Due to their thicker construction, they will take somewhat longer to bring to temperature, but hold the radiant heat longer. Radiant heat builds in the entire body of the stove, and emits the “heat waves” or radiant heat into other objects around it. This type of heat is quite appealing for many. Radiant heaters also help keep the warmth more at floor level.
Stone tile stoves, such as soapstone clad units, are constructed of a combination of cast iron frame and dense stone panels. While offering the same combustion efficiencies as the steel and cast iron varieties, they will reach surface temperatures of 500-600 degrees, but the warmth embedded in them will extend beyond the others. The combinations of cast iron and stone available are beautiful. These stoves can be compared to masonry heaters in their function, but offer secondary combustion efficiency, as well.
Do I need a fan?
Certain types of woodstoves, such as steel units, provide natural convection through the heat shielding built into the sides and back of the stove. A heat activated, electric fan will help propel the air flow, but is not always a necessity. Fans can be purchased and mounted even after the stove has been installed. Cast iron units do not benefit as much from a blower. The heat radiates from all surfaces, therefore no one centralized area provides heat build up, so directing the heat with a fan is not as effective.
What is a “certified” wood stove?
The certification process for wood stoves is conducted by independant testing agencies, such as Warnock-Hersey. They assess the safe distances to combustibles for each model, and this information is affixed to every appliance, with a non-removable label. The clearances are deemed to be legal by the manufacturer. This information is taken by interpreters of the building code, such as building inspectors, to be legal and enforceable.
How hot should I burn my stove?
The hotter the better, if the stove features secondary combustion technology, as many of today’s high-efficiency models do. In order for the smoke to re-burn, the temperature inside the firebox needs to be at least 1100 degrees.
What size of appliance should I buy?
Proper assessment of heating requirements involves many variables. Heating with a woodstove is referred to as “space heating”. This is different than with a furnace, which is called central heating. Stove capacity, placement, and length of burn time should be considered. If the goal is to try to heat the entire home with a single space heater, heat distribution is critical. Depending upon the size of the home, this goal may not always be achievable, but by heating the main areas of a home, reliance on the central heating can be greatly reduced.
Can you direct heat from a high-efficiency wood zero clearance fireplace into your furnace ducting?
Many models of high-efficiency fireplaces allow for heat ducting to be run from the top of the fireplace, channeling heat into adjacent rooms. If the heat ducts include a fan inside, the velocity can be enough to pull a good deal of the heat into either a basement or in some cases, the duct system of the furnace. However, currently this practice is only allowed in combination with electric furnaces, as per TSSA regulations.
Does Renewable Energy of Plum Hollow do WETT inspections?
Our company now offers WETT inspections on wood and pellet burning installations. The inspection looks not only at the equipment but the code compliance of the installation, as well. Clearances to combustibles, hearth size, venting systems and wall penetration areas are assessed, as well as the stove/insert/fireplace itself.
Why do I need a building permit for the installation of a wood or pellet appliance?
Your local building inspection department requires a permit be taken out. They will perform an inspection of the installation to ensure it is to code. Although a WETT- certified installation or inspection should ensure the same thing, the building inspection department has a duty to protect it’s taxpayers by doing an independent check – they are the authority having jurisdiction.
What are the typical clearance requirements for woodstoves?
Wood stove clearances tend to vary, depending on the size and type of stove. Usually, in the case of steel stoves that we sell and install, it ranges from 3”-6” to a combustible wall surface from the back or the back corners of the unit. Cast iron and radiant heaters generally require several more inches. Check all clearances with the manufacturers’ specifications on any stove.
What are the typical hearth requirements?
The recommendations for hearth protection should always conform to the manufacturers specifications. Some units will require heat protection as well as spark protection. Generally, in Canada, spark protection involves using a non-combustible floor covering, which sits level and in the case of tile, is well-grouted. From the front opening of the firebox, the hearth must extend at least 18” in front, as well as at least 8” on each side. Each 8” side must also extend to 18” in front of the stove. The hearth distance behind is usually 8”, unless the specified distance from the back of the stove to the wall is less than 8”, then the spark protection must go back to the wall.
How do I know if my chimney is code-compliant?
Code compliance means that the chimney meets the current building code requirements, which are subject to change over time. It is always best to have the system evaluated by either a WETT-certified technician or a building inspector, who have the training to make a comprehensive inspection and keep up with the changes to the building code. Both stainless steel chimneys and masonry chimneys have code requirements.
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